Skin care secrets from the pros

Not-So-Secret Skin Care Secrets

It is spring, the flowers are popping, the sun is shining and your skin routine needs to change with the season! During the winter months our skin suffers from dehydration and dryness.

No matter how many times we've heard these tips, we get busy and stressed and begin to neglect our skin. Here's what skincare experts have to say about keeping your skin healthy and beautiful.

1. Always, always make sure that you wash your face at night

"The weather really does a number on our skin," says Carmen Gramajo, co-owner of Skyline Downtown Salon in Kansas City, Missouri. The residue from free radicals in the environment causes dryness, clogs pores, encourages blemishes and black heads to form, and contributes to the aging process. Since your skin is being assaulted by these little monsters every day, it's important to wash your face well each and every night. Gramajo recommends using something mild, like a moisturizing cleanser to add that extra moisture your skin needs from the dry days of winter. Jurlique Nourishing Foaming Cleanser is a cream-based cleanser that moisturizes while it cleans. You could also try Neutrogena Cream Cleanser -- a foam cleanser that delivers nourishing and moisturizing agents as it gets rid of makeup and dirt.

2. Watch your diet

Fatty acids like Omega 3s are great for luminous, luscious skin. You can find Omega 3s in salmon, flax seed and in plain fish oil capsules. Avocados also contain fatty acids that will help your skin stay supple. On the flip side, a greasy hamburger is only going to add grease to your skin! Before you eat something, consider if you would slather it on your face. If not, it's probably not going to be healthy for your skin, either.

Then there are your drinks. It's a no brainer: The more water you drink, the more hydrated your skin will look and feel. Find out if you are getting enough water. If you simply can't gulp down those eight glasses of water a day, remember that you get water from the other foods and drinks you consume, too. You can also perk up your water by adding cucumber slices or lemon slices and rosemary to a full pitcher of water and allowing it to chill overnight. These extra ingredients will give you a refreshing, tasty drink that's all water!

3. Wear your Sun block

Sunscreen gets a rousing thumbs up from the skincare experts we interviewed. "Sunscreen is the most important anti-aging product anyone can use," agrees Cindy German-Day of the Nuance Skin Boutique in Athens, Georgia.

"Always use a sun block. SPF 30 is a good measure. I know…. you are young and think you do not need it. Believe me! Once you get into your 30s you will be wishing you listened," recommends Gramajo.

Water-based sunscreens are a great alternative to traditional thick, greasy sunblocks. Try DERMAdoctor Body Guard with SPF 30. It is a mattifying solution that absorbs oils and is great for both use under makeup and for working out in the sun. Neutrogena also has a complete line of SPF 30s available at mass retailers.

Check out these sunblock application basics and find out if your sunscreen is working

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4. Trick those tired eyes

If your eyes need a pick-me-up, place chamomile tea bags or cucumber slices in water in the fridge overnight and apply to puffy swollen eyes in the morning - a great trick for allergies, too.

5. Incorporate exfoliation

“The biggest mistake men and women make is not exfoliating enough,” says master cosmetologist Cindy German-Day of the Nuance Skin Boutique in Athens, Georgia. As we age, our skins cells turn over slower and make our skin look dull. It also makes our lines more defined. Like a ditch, if you smooth out the sides, the ditch doesn't look as deep. “Simply using a cleanser that offer an AHA or a light scrub every day allows the skin to absorb more moisture, leaving skin smoother, softer and more hydrated.”

Gramajo adds, "You can use a face cleanser that has an exfoliation agent in it, either in a glycolic (for the more mature skin) or a scrub, at least once a week in your evening routine."

6. Treat yourself and your skin will thank you

After your DNA, environmental damage causes the most aging. “I recommend getting regular facials. It's maintenance like having your teeth cleaned! But if you can't, at least take the time to cleanse your skin at night. Your skin cell turn over at a faster rate at night than during the day. A good night's sleep is just as important to your skin as to your body,” German-Day says.

Best spa facials for your skin type

About Face

Achieving glowing, gorgeous skin can be tricky business. There are a lot of things to consider, most importantly skin type. Every skin type has specific needs that should not only be taken into consideration when buying a cleanser or moisturizer, but also when getting a facial. Spa treatments are a great way to give your skin a boost, but with so many types of facials to choose from, what will benefit your skin most? We got the inside scoop from Kathryn Serviss, lead esthetician at the Bliss in Los Angeles/Westwood to give you a better idea of what to look for on your next visit to the spa.

"Every skin is different, so facials should be customized based on what's going on with your skin at the time of your appointment," explains Serviss. She takes us through every skin type and provides the best facial treatments for each.

Dry skin

Dry skin needs many different treatments, Serviss explains. Dry skin lacks natural lipids or oils, making it prone to dehydration. Because of this lack of water, the skin's natural exfoliating cycle slows down. Facials that include gentle exfoliation (i.e. with enzymes) are a great way to take your skin from flakey to fabulous. Dry skin also needs both oil and water to balance it out, so Serviss suggests looking for facials that include masks, which will help penetrate product into the skin. One example is a mask that will rubberize. It may sound a little strange, but any product you put under this type of mask will be pushed into the skin as the mask hardens, leaving your skin feeling hydrated and refreshed.

Oily skin

Oily skin produces more oil than it needs. This oil is a magnet for debris, such as skin cells, makeup and pollution, which then cause congestion inside the pores. Over time, the congestion becomes hardened, just like plaque on your teeth. Look for facials that include a chemical exfoliant (glycolic acid or salicylic acid.) This will penetrate into the pores and melt the congestion. Oily skin also needs extractions to remove any hardened debris within the pores (so long, blackheads!) But don't try this at home. Extractions are something your esthetician is trained to do safely as part of your facial.

Combination skin

Serviss's favorite skin type to work with, combination skin, has both oily and dry areas, so these areas need to be treated separately. Enzyme, chemical or even microdermabrasion exfoliants work very well, Serviss says. Extractions are also needed (usually in the T-zone) to remove congestion, and a professional treatment mask, such as freeze-dried collagen to replenish lost water and soothe the skin.

Mature skin

Mature skin can be challenging. It can be oily/acne prone, dry/dehydrated or a multitude of skin type combinations. Mature skin also slows down (cell production, circulation), so there are many issues to address. Your esthetician will first treat the type of skin (oily, dry, combination, normal).Then she will have to focus on that slowing process to increase circulation and saturate the skin with antioxidants, vitamins and minerals for healthier, younger looking skin.

Sensitive skin

"We have to be careful working with sensitive skin," Serviss notes. All skin needs exfoliation to remove built-up dead skin, but this needs to be done gently. Facials that use enzymes to exfoliate work very well, because they don't irritate the skin. Also look for products that don't have excessive fragrances or irritants in them.

Once you're back at home

Serviss has some simple at-home tips for keeping skin looking great:
• Cleanse to remove debris from the day
• Use a toner to rehydrate the skin after cleansing (rehydrating will make your moisturizers penetrate better)
• Exfoliate to help with the natural cycle of shedding dead skin
• Moisturize to replenish
• Protect to inhibit free radicals and shield the skin from UV damage

"Everyone should be doing these steps," Serviss says. The steps stay the same for every skin type, but the products you use to complete the steps will be different for everyone. If you are unsure, talk to your esthetician about what products are best for your skin type.